January 18, 2011
As consumers, we are always fearful that we will be taken for a ride. Remodeling is one of those places where, inevitably, the dollar amount charged is not what you expected and then there are the little things that carry a big price tag.
After repeat requests about “how much does a remodel cost,” we created this educational series highlighting places where expenditures rise. Sometimes these expenditures can be avoided, sometimes not; however, the more prepared you are when it is time to remodel your home, the more confident you will be in your relationship with your contractor and your design decisions.
On average, newer homes are easier and less expensive to demo. The plumbing and electric is generally up to code and building materials are in good condition. So I will be addressing the cost of doing work in a pre-1978 home.
US EPA RRP Lead Laws
Right from the start, your contractor should be EPA Lead RRP certified. When permits are pulled for your project, your local government will require it. Homes that we’re built prior to 1978 have a higher chance of being painted with lead-based paint. If your contractor is disrupting painted surfaces, they will need to partition off the area with plastic and vacuum the area with a HEPA rated vacuum. This should lower the risk of contaminating the rest of the home with lead paint dust.
You can expect a fee of a few hundred dollars for the material and labor for this service. The exact amount will be determined by the size of the area to be shielded in plastic. Once the area has been taped-off, stay out. If you do not like the way the plastic has been hung, talk to your contractor – do not remove the plastic on your own. Not only could this make you responsible for any damage the contractor’s adhesive may cause your ceiling, walls or floor – but the contractor will probably charge you a second fee for having to reinstallation the plastic.
Vitrolite: The bathrooms of older homes often have this beautiful glass tile in large format. It can be just in the shower/bath area, or all around the room. The biggest problem with this tile is that it is heavy and it is not tempered. Carefully removing this kind of tile is time-consuming and therefore costly. Many of our clients opt to save money by doing their own demo; however, removal of this kind of tile is not a DIY project.
(As a word of caution, if you currently have this kind of tile in your home and it is loose or falling off the walls, but you are not ready to renovate just yet; remove the few tiles in question carefully, or have a professional do it for you. If you have another bathroom in the home, use it exclusively until you can have the room updated.)
Disruption of a “Seemingly Fine” Room
During demo is when problems with a room rise to the surface. Walls are opened and mold is exposed, floors and soffits hide iron drain pipes where the top halves are rusted away. If the room has never seen a renovation, or it has been several decades since the last remodel, be prepared for surprises. It would be wise to budget for unseen expenditures, as your contractor will not know what these costs will be until they are uncovered. Once you know what you can afford for your remodel, take 90% of it and give that number to your contractor or designer and save the remaining 10% as your cushion to pay for the unseen.
Can you save money on a demolition? Yes! But it will probably require you to take responsibility for the labor of removing and disposing of product and building materials.
Written by Imperial Kitchens and Baths, Inc. staff designer Stephanie Bullwinkel, CBD.
March 24, 2010
On April 22, 2010 the US EPA’s law on “Renovation, Repair and Painting” (RRP) will go into effect. This new law will affect you, if:
- You live in a home that was built prior to 1978.
- Your children (age 6 or younger) attend a facility that was built prior to 1978.
Why 1978? Lead-based paint was used in more than 38 million homes and buildings until it was banned for residential use in 1978. Once ingested, lead, like other heavy elements, has a way of hanging around in our bodies – this can cause biological disturbances. In large doses, it can lead to toxicity – affecting our brains and nervous systems. Children, in their developing stages, are the most susceptible to lead toxicity.
Lead in paint that is adhered to an object does not propose a danger – it does not out-gas or radiate. If you live in a home that contains lead paint, you do not necessarily need to have a costly abatement team remove all paint from your home. Disrupting lead paint is where the EPA’s concern is.
Lead gets into our bodies via nose and mouth. Paint chips and dust particles are the biggest culprits to ingesting lead paint. If you are renovating an older building, paint disruption is due to occur.
The EPA is requiring by federal law that all contractors who work in buildings built before 1978 and disrupt more than 6 square feet of interior paint or 20 square feet of exterior paint to be Certified. This includes, but is not limited to:
- Window and Door Contractors
- General Contractors
- Landlords and Property Managers
- Some Building Engineers
Your contractor should provide for you, before the renovation begins, a copy of the EPA’s Renovate Right pamphlet. You will also need to sign documentation for your contractor’s files saying that you received the pamphlet. This documentation also outlines options available if you would like to opt out of the RRP procedures.
Certified professionals have been through training in how to properly handle spaces where lead paint may be present. Containment of lead paint chips and dust are a primary concern. These procedures are time-consuming and require additional job materials. You can expect your renovator to line item this procedure for your home project (this small cost may vary depending on the space, project and your geographical location). The added time and cost to your contract is worth the sense of mind in knowing that your health and wellbeing is being protected. The federal government is currently experiencing a backlog as US contractors rush to get their certification. If your contractor cannot produce a RRP Certification, ask to see proof of their RRP training.
Property owners who opt to DIY are excluded from this new law. However, it highly recommended that homeowners take steps to keep themselves safe with these best practices.
- Tape off with plastic the area you are working in.
- Limit leaving the work area to go to other areas of the home.
- Do not eat in the work area.
- Keep children and animal out of the area until it has been throughly cleaned.
- If you have them, use power tools that are connected to a vacuum system.
- Do not sand lead-based paint. If you must sand an area, wear a face mask. When done, mist the area with a spray bottle of water to bring the dust out of the air.
- When cleaning up the area, mist down all drop cloths. Fold drop clothes edges in first to keep dust and particles from escaping.
- Clean the area with a HEPA vacuum. Remove the vacuum bag from the vacuum outside of the building and tape shut.
- Promptly remove clothing and wash before walking through your home or coming in contact with other family members.
If you are not planning a major renovation, but you have paint flaking in your home, a fresh coat of paint will keep more paint from coming off. And of course… teach your children to NEVER EAT PAINT FLAKES OR CHEW ON PAINTED SURFACES (this includes furniture and window sills).
If you have further questions about this new law, you can add your comment below or visit www.epa.gov/lead/index.html.
Written by Stephanie Bullwinkel, CBD for Imperial Kitchens and Baths, Inc. Imperial Kitchens and Baths, Inc. is proud to have completed their RRP required training. As of March 18, 2010, Imperial is in compliance with the US EPA’s RRP rule and IDPH. Pending official notice from the EPA, the company will be a RRP Lead Certified Renovator in the Chicago area.
July 29, 2009
Reface, recover, renew, refresh – these are all words used to define a technique commonly used to update kitchen cabinets. I prefer to use the term “recover,” since it most accurately describes the process.
A recover involves removing the old doors and drawer fronts from your existing cabinetry and replacing them with new doors of your choice, wood or laminate. The faces of the boxes are then covered in wood veneer or laminate to match the new doors. The cabinets themselves are rarely distrubed. The result is a brand new look wihtout undergoing major construction. The video below is a time-lapse of a recover in process that we did in our showroom.
Can a kitchen recover really save you money? Yes, but not every kitchen is a candidate for a recover. The majority of cabinets in the space must be stable and solidly constructed. Poorly constructed cabinets are better off being replaced with new cabinets. The layout of the kitchen needs to remain approximately the same. Appliances and sinks will remain in their current location.
Removing a wall and/or changing the floor will not necessarily exclude a kitchen from being recovered, but it may incur some expenses that you would not necessarily have if you replaced the cabinets entirely.
Adding and replacing select cabinets to the existing layout may be a problem depending on the limits of your contractor. This is a question you should ask when getting estimates on your project, especially is you suspect your a cabinet. As in all remodeling projects, it is common for the less skilled laborer to charge less. Look for longevity, ask for referrences from other “recover” clients. Recovering cabinets is an art equal to that of a custom tailor.
If you do add cabinets to your existing layout, be prepared – the interior of the cabinets will not match the interior of the existing (as they are not part of the recover process unless specified). But the exteriors should be a seamless design vision between old and new.
Will the savings of a recover be half of what would be spent on new cabinets? It could that significant of a savings. The best way to find out is to have your contractors quote the project both ways.
Is a recover truely a” green” remodeling option? When you factor in the existing cabinets going to a land-fill, new cabinets being made from new timber, and then transporting those new cabinets in large cardboard boxes, which are mainly filled with air unless the cabinets are not ready-assembled. Yes, it is a greener option. Just the doors off the exisitng cabinets are going to waste and the new doors take up considerable less space on a frieght truck than cabinets. Then add to it that several door manufacturers and laminate companies in the US are taking the “green” initiative to heart and you have something you can feel good about. (Many cabinet companies are offering sustainable cabinetry options as well.) However, the glues used to apply the new veneer to the cabinets can cause irritation in senesitve people. The outgasing of these product is typically fast-occuring.
Will a recover be less of a headache than a “typical” remodel? Since the existing cabinetry will not be removed, a lot of time is saved in carrying in and out large casework. If the floors and walls are not distrubed then there is even less mess in your home.
While there is no reason this process can’t be used in a bathroom, it’s just not as common. Sometimes it is actually cost prohibitive. In the case of a single 36″ vanity, it can be less expensive, and less hassel, to just replace the whole thing.
Written by Imperial Kitchen and Baths Designer, Stephanie Bullwinkel (CBD).